3037 Jet Wing Drive, 719-391-1890, facebook.com/billyssouthernpride
Billy Bowman’s Southern and seafood restaurant, Southern Pride, has moved fully to takeout and catering, and that’s cool by us, because two sandwich plates give us plenty to talk about. First, the hot link sandwich plate: The bun’s nothing spectacular, but the split, griddled sausage has a spiciness best described as blunt. It doesn’t sting, it doesn’t creep on — it hits like a hammer.
It’s served with a barbecue sauce that’s smoky-spicy-sweet with just the right amount of acidity on the finish and supporting molasses notes. Side collard greens are salted well with good texture, not soggy or overcooked, with some tooth left. The flavor presence of trinity veggies and a chile pepper kick make the red beans and rice good, though not at all saucy. Billy’s pulled pork sandwich plate has some of the best damn meat we’ve had in town.
It’s mixed with a sauce that gives it a potent smoke, with sweetness, tang and mustard notes making for a complex and delicious bite. Candied yams rate marshmallowy-sweet but still tasting like yams, though lacking in sweet spices. Skip the mac and cheese altogether. Ours is salty mush with no cheese flavor.
